Organic Dog Food - Should You Feed Organic Food to Your Pet Dog?

September 30th, 2007

by Michael Lee

These days, going eco-friendly and organic is all the rage, and you can see people striving to make a change in their lifestyles and their eating habits. So why not include dog food in the organic crusade? Sales of organic dog food are going up, and this is due to the fact that pet owners who are trying to eat well also want their dogs to do the same. People are starting to think that the usual commercial dog foods aren’t the best option (especially with the dog food recall), and that organic dog food is the key to keeping their dogs healthy.

Many dog owners are convinced that organic dog food ensures better health for their pets. However, there haven’t been any studies or reports that make such a claim, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) itself also states that the main difference lies in how the food is produced and processed, not in their nutritional content.

Nevertheless, this doesn’t stop people from helping their pets adopt an organic diet, and the fact that organic dog food uses more wholesome ingredients is already a major part of its appeal.

What goes into organic dog food? The manufacturers of these meals all have their own approach to the ingredients, and they promise that their products don’t make use of growth hormones, antibiotics, and artificial flavorings. Organic dog food made out of chicken, for example, usually uses free-range chickens. Even dog treats can be manufactured using organic whole grains.

If you’re thinking about switching your dog’s diet to organic dog food, there are a few things you should consider. First is the price. Organic dog food is more expensive than regular dog food, so you should first look at the food options available and determine which one is within your budget.

You should also do your research on organic dog food manufacturers and learn more about their production process and their reputation as well.

Don’t forget to consult your veterinarian first before making the switch. Making the change to organic dog food isn’t applauded by all veterinarians, so it’s best to find out from your vet how this change can affect your dog.

Organic dog food has many positive points, but you shouldn’t forget to look at the other side of it as well. It may turn out that your dog is most suited to what he currently eats, so do your research first and don’t rush him into a complete diet overhaul.

About the Author

Prolong your dog’s life and know the life-saving secrets that most dog-lovers will never know about detecting bad dog food and solving dog health problems at http://www.20daypersuasion.com/dogs-exposed.htm

This post was written by Guest Author

Steps For Dog Grooming Your Dog

September 15th, 2007

by Ashley Peach

Your dog’s health is going to be dependent on you; not only what you feed your dog, but also on your dog care. There are many things that are considered part of your dog’s care, but the main item you should concentrate on is the grooming. There are many reasons for grooming your dog. First you want to remove the dirt, dead hair, and prevent matting of their fur. Second you want to bond with your dog. Every dog needs some type of grooming care. It will depend a little on the dog as to how much grooming they are going to need. For example the Akita has natural oils in their coat that protect them, giving them baths can hurt the coat and weaken their immunity; therefore it is important to only bathe them when they really need it. Other dogs need to be bathed at least once a month. The following are going to be a few tips for dog grooming and care.

You should start grooming your dog as a puppy. If you have bought an older dog you may have a little trouble if they have not been groomed a lot in the past. However with a little help they will become accustom to the procedures.

You will need to have tools in order to groom your dog properly. Most stores will carry kits for dog grooming. Here are a few things you need to make sure are in the kit: combs for the correct type of hair, brushes with slanted metal pins, shedding blades, nail trimmers, tooth brush, and of course some type of shampoo.

The shampoo should be for dogs specifically. You want to make sure the proper nutrients are in the shampoo, such as natural oils that will help the hair remain soft. You may wish to ask a veterinarian or a person who grooms dogs at your local pet store for tips on the proper kit to purchase.

Once you have the proper tools, you can then start the brushing process. You will need to make sure all of the matted hair and tangles are removed from the dog’s coat before getting them wet. This means you may have to work a little hard to brush at the matted areas with a mat comb. Use a sawing motion to get through their coat.

As we mentioned above some dogs cannot tolerate frequent baths due to drying out the natural oils in the hair and skin, which leads to dry skin that they will scratch constantly. So you will want a gentle shampoo and a moderately warm bath. Soak the dog to the skin making sure all areas are wet. Lather the dog with shampoo, making sure to work the shampoo into the fur as you would your hair. You want to be thorough so make sure to get the tail, head, and under areas. It is best if you have some sort of showerhead with a hose or if you are outside to use a spray nozzle. The spray action will help you get the soap out of their hair. Just rinsing with a washcloth or buckets of water is not going to be effective. You do want to keep the soap out of their ears and eyes, but you can wash around the eyes with a cloth and use a sponge to help clean out the ears.

Grooming your dogs is extremely important and while we have only discussed the brushing, tools, and bathing aspects of grooming you should be aware that there are more things to consider after the bath and for daily care.

About the Author
Ashley Peach - Dog Toys, Plush Dog Toys and Dog Leads.

This post was written by Guest Author

8 Ways to Stop Submissive Urination in Dogs

April 19th, 2007

by MR Bruno

If your dog urinates when he gets excited you can easily stop submissive urination in dogs once you understand the root cause of the problem.

It is always a good idea to initially consult with your veterinarian to rule out any medical causes for submissive urination. Once ruled out, you can look to behavioral roots of the problem and proceed to stop submissive urination in your dog.

Dogs with submissive urination behavior commonly exhibit this dog behavior when :

* You walk in the door after being out for a few hours and you give your dog an excited and emotional greeting

* When friends and other visitors arrive at your home

* If there is discourse or loud arguing going on

* When a dog or puppy is scolded

* If a loud noise frightens your dog such as thunder, firecrackers, tire blowout, siren or yelling.

* Young puppies and timid, frightened dogs, as well as those with dog parents who are less friendly with their pooches are most frequent displayers of submissive urination.

Submissive urination as a dog behavior is a way that your dog or puppy is telling you that you are in charge, he submits to your power and dominance, or that of another who has come to visit. Be a friend to your dog, not a tough bossy taskmaster.

8 Ways to Stop Submissive Urination in Dogs

* Warmly compliment your dog for positive behavior such as going outside to urinate

* Greet your dog calmly from a standing position. When you bend down and your dog lies down to say hi, he will be showing more submissive behavior which reinforces other behaviors of this nature such as submissive urination.

* Avoid direct eye to eye contact when you first see your dog upon returning home. This can be intimidating to a timid pooch and precipitate submissive behavior.

* Don’t grab and hug your dog when you walk into a room where submissive urination has occurred. Once again, a shy pup may see this as an act of dominance and the result will be submissive urination.

* If submissive urination occurs at a specific time, such as before sleeping, or just before you go out, try limiting your dog’s water drinking at that time. Be careful not to deprive your dog’s water access for more than just a very short period of time as water is essential to his well being.

* Don’t make a big deal out of your return home. The excitement in your voice and greeting can be a signal to your dog that he should submit to your entrance and respond with submissive urination. Enter the room calmly and without fanfare. Just let your dog come to you. He will relax once he knows this is not a time for him to respond to dominant behavior by submissive urination

* Join a group dog training class. Submissive urination is not a house training issue. But by helping your develop other behaviors such as responding to basic commands of sit, stay, come, fetch and others you will be reinforcing positive behaviors and can then divert your dog from submissive urination when that moment occurs.

* Never scold or punish your dog who is displaying submissive urination behavior. This will only reinforce the behavior and in the case of punishment can be inhumane and unlawful as well. Just say “NO”, in the popular vernacular of many anti drug use advocates. Do this in a firm but calm voice each time.

You and your dog will achieve greater success and harmony and stop submissive urination in the process.

About the Author
Does your dog urinate every time mom walks into your house? Does he pee the floor when you call the family to dinner? Whatever the problem, help is at hand. Find out how to easily solve any dog behavior issue at http://www.dogs-4life.com/disobedient-dog-help.html

This post was written by Guest Author

10 Of The Biggest Dog Killers In Your Home

March 11th, 2007

by Colin Philips

Dogs are very curious animals and as omnivores and natural scavengers, can get into and eat just about anything. However, there are many toxic substances found in your home that could potentially kill your dog. The following is a list of ten common household substances that you should make sure to keep out of your dog’s reach.

1) Antifreeze: Many people do not realize it, but common antifreeze kills many pets each year. It smells and tastes very sweet to your dog and is very appealing to him. Ethylene glycol is toxic however, and each winter, many animals are killed by it.

Symptoms of toxicity include seizures, vomiting, stumbling and lethargy leading to kidney failure. Make sure to keep your antifreeze out of your dog’s reach. If you suspect that your dog has ingested antifreeze, take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.

2) Chocolate: Chocolate contains a substance called the obromine which is toxic to dogs. Baking chocolate and dark chocolate is especially dangerous.

While it usually takes a somewhat large amount of chocolate to kill a dog, poisoning and death does occur with smaller amounts ingested. Signs of chocolate poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea, increased urination, and increased activity.

This can progress to seizures and unusual heart rhythms. Call your veterinarian immediately if you suspect your dog has eaten chocolate.

3) Bleach: As you might imagine, household bleach is toxic to dogs. Keep all products containing bleach out of your dog’s reach.

Symptoms of bleach poisoning include drooling, vomiting, and abdominal pain. Do NOT induce vomiting if you suspect your dog has ingested bleach and contact your veterinarian immediately.

4) Tylenol: As little as two regular strength Tylenol tablets can kill a small dog.

Dogs lack the proper liver enzymes to break down acetaminophen. Signs of toxicity include drooling, lethargy, and abdominal pain.

If you suspect your dog has ingested Tylenol, call your veterinarian immediately.

5) Watch Batteries: If your dog ingests a watch battery, it can cause a potentially fatal ulceration in the stomach within 12 hours. All other alkaline batteries are toxic to dogs as well.

Symptoms of toxicity include drooling, lack of appetite, vomiting, and lethargy. If you suspect your dog has ingested a watch battery, contact your vet immediately.

6) Moth Balls: Moth balls are very dangerous to dogs. They contain an insecticide that causes central nervous system excitement and seizures.

When metabolized, ingestion of moth balls can lead to liver failure. Symptoms of poisoning by moth balls include vomiting and seizures. If your dog has consumed moth balls, do NOT induce vomiting. Seek veterinary care immediately.

7) Fabric Softeners and other detergents: All sorts of household detergents are toxic to dogs at one level or another, but fabric softeners fall into the highly toxic category.

Signs of toxicity include vomiting, lethargy, burns to the mouth, drooling, muscle weakness, and even coma. Do NOT induce vomiting if your dog has ingested any detergent. Contact your veterinarian immediately.

8) Mouthwash: Mouthwash can contain boric acid which is highly toxic to dogs. Symptoms of poisoning by mouthwash include vomiting, drooling, seizures, and coma.

You should take your dog to the veterinarian immediately if you suspect poisoning by mouthwash or other household item containing boric acid like contact lens solution or denture cleaner.

9) Peach Pits: With most fruits, the pits and the seeds are toxic to dogs. Signs of poisoning include drooling, vomiting, and lethargy.

If you suspect your dog has eaten a peach pit or the pit or seeds of any fruit, take him to the veterinarian immediately.

10) Household Plants: Many common and popular household plants are highly toxic to dogs. A partial list of toxic plants includes poinsettias, lilies, ferns, devil’s ivy, aloe, and ivy.

Symptoms of poisoning due to ingestion of toxic plants include vomiting and central nervous system excitement. Many of these plants are fatal if ingested. Please contact your veterinarian immediately if you suspect your dog has eaten a toxic houseplant.

With diligence on our part, we can help prevent our dogs from getting into substances that are toxic to them.

Many veterinary school websites offer lists of things that are toxic to dogs and what you should do if your dog ingests such things.

As always, if you think your dog may have eaten something dangerous, contact your veterinarian immediately or take your dog to the closest emergency clinic.
About the Author

Dog Health Revealed is an excellent place to find dog links, articles and resource. For more information on Dogs visit: dog health problems

This post was written by Guest Author

Rare & Unusual Dog Breeds

March 10th, 2007

by Kelly Marshall

Dogs have been domesticated for thousands of years and some breeds have some really recognizable and outstanding features. While all breeds, by definition, are unique and easily defined there are some breeds that simply go well past the mark of being unusual. These breeds often require special care and are definitely not dogs for everyone.

The following are some very unique or extreme dog breeds from around the world:

Chinese Crested - this dog can be either with or without hair, but the more known variety has hair only on the top of the head, the feet, and the feet. There is also a variety of Chinese Crested called the Powderpuff that has hair all over the body. They are a very fine boned dog that only grows to about 11-13 inches when fully mature.

Ibizan Hound - this is a natural born hunting dog with very clean lines and abundant energy. The Ibizan has very light skin tones and pigments, which makes it a very unique looking dog. They can be up to 27 inches in height and have an amazing ability to jump from a standstill.

Komondor - one of the most unique looking breeds this huge dog is covered by masses of ringlets that hang down to the ground. The hair actually looks like a coat of cords and is almost totally weatherproof. The Komondor is almost 27 inches at the shoulders when full-grown and can weight up to 100 pounds. This coat is always white but may have some cream or buff coloring in the cords.

Puli - another of the herding breeds, the Puli has a distinctive long shaggy coat that drops down to the ground. The outer coat of the Puli will often form cords like the Komondor, but the Puli can be gray, white, black, or rusty black. The Puli is usually about 17 inches when full grown.

Scottish Deerhound - this large dog is very gently and excellent for almost all living arrangements. It is very tall, almost 32 inches at the shoulders, and has coarse, 3-4 inch hair all over its body. The Scottish Deerhound has a very expressive face and is excellent with children.

Shar-Pei - also known as the wrinkle dog, this breed has a definite physical appearance that sets it apart. The extra wrinkles on the coat require frequent care and cleaning to avoid skin conditions, but the breed itself is generally healthy and adapts well to most living conditions.

There are many other rare or extreme type dog breeds available throughout the world. If you are considering one of these breeds be sure to research the needs of the breed and make sure that you are able to commit to any special environmental conditions or health concerns that the breed may have. Many of the miniatures or “tea cup” varieties of the toy dog breeds are also extremes of the breeds, but these often have a wide variety of health issues that tend to occur throughout the dog’s life. As with all breeds always buy from a reputable breeder to ensure that you get a happy and healthy puppy.
About the Author

Kelly Marshall writes for Oh My Dog Supplies - check for specials on personalized dog beds & wrought iron dog feeders

This post was written by Guest Author

Aging Pets

March 10th, 2007

by Terrie C.

Age affects our pets just as it does humans. Osteoarthritis is the main culprit, and any pet can be affected by it. More so in our canine and feline friends, and usually gets worse as the animal ages. Osteoarthritis is a chronic arthritis, which is slow and progresses over time and usually starts to show between middle to old age.

If the animal has had any bone or hip traumas such as broken bones, fractures, or even sprains, the arthritis progresses even more rapidly. It is usually the weight bearing joints that are most affected by this, especially if the animal is over weight or even just of large size, which includes the hips, elbows, knees, and the ankles.

In middle age cats and dogs, the pain is usually mild and in most cases after over use. However, it does eventually progress as the animal gets older, which can cause them pain even when they are at rest.

Have you ever noticed how a puppy or kitten can spring into action very quickly from a resting position? Yet, if you pay attention to the middle age pet, they are a little slower in movement when trying to stand from a sleeping or even sitting position. There are certain medications that your pet can be put on for this condition which will help his mobility greatly and effectively; however it is advisable to see your veterinarian to learn what is best for your particular pet. There are some medications that are not good for all types of species.

Now that we are on the subject of your pets comfort as they are aging, have you ever thought about their comfort while sleeping? A lot of times, if your pet is suffering from any type of arthritis, chances are it is hurting them at night depending on the surfaces they are sleeping on. Older and arthritic pets, especially dogs, need to be as comfortable as possible. There are several forms of pet beds that you can purchase for them to make them happy and comfortable. From small to large, edged or flat, and some even have sides and headrests on them.

You shouldn’t choose just any bed. You also have to take into consideration the weight and size of your pet. The bigger and heavier the pet is, the more cushion he will need due to his body weight pushing into it. So before going out to purchase your pets new bed, take notice of how you’re pet likes to sleep. Does he like resting his head up high or on pillows? Does he like to snuggle up inside a soft blanket? Try to choose something in the lines of what your pet would really enjoy and feel most comfortable with.

About the Author

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets.

This post was written by Guest Author

The Maltese Dog Breed Makes A Great Pet And Show Dog

February 4th, 2007

by Lee Dobbins

The Maltese is lovely, intelligent and playful as well as being cute cuddly - all characteristics that make a great pet! This breed originates from Italy and it is thought that it was first introduced in England by Crusaders returning from the Mediterranean. They were exceptionally popular with women who would carry them in the sleeves of their dresses! Not only a wonderful pet, this breed is also one of the most sought after show dogs.

A member of the American Kennel Club Toy Group, the Maltese was admitted to the AKC in 1888. They stand eight to 10 inches tall and weigh between 6 1/2 and 9 pounds. They can be long-lived if cared for properly and may have a life span of 15 years.

Though small, the mall tease Is fairly hearty and is well-known for his beautiful long white, silky coat. this breed has a single code of thick shiny hair which is very heavy and drapes down to the floor being over 8 inches long. The ears and tail are also thickly covered with hair and the tail drapes over the dogs back. The eyes are rather large, rounded and dark. This is a small dog but sturdy. Acceptable colors for the Maltese include white and light ivory.

The Maltese makes it great bad as it is gentle and loving as well as playful and lively. Devoted to their owners, these dogs are very intelligent and quite adept at learning tricks. Though small, they can be rather bold and will let you know if there are any suspicious noises about. They typically get along quite well with other animals, however some can be snappish and they may be difficult to house train.

with the Maltese Sea to need to watch out for a few health problems the strangest of which is that they can get sunburned a long the part down the middle. Other problems could include skin problems, eye problems, respiratory problems, tooth problems and slipped stifle.

The Maltese is active indoors but can do fine in an apartment as long as you take them for regular walks. This dog will be playful well into its older years so it kind of creates its own exercise and a yard is not necessary.

This breed does require a bit of grooming and should be brushed daily as well as have his eyes cleaned daily. Since the hair does fall into the eyes, some owners will tie the hair on the top of the head in a ponytail to make cleaning the eyes easier. To avoid staining of the hair, you should clean your Maltese around the mouth after each meal. You also need to clean the ears regularly and remove hair growing inside. They can be bathed or dry shampooed as often as you wish. The good thing is that despite their mass of hair they do not shed much.

About the Author

Lee Dobbins writes for Dog Breeds 123 where you can see photos and learn more about your favorite dog breeds like the Maltese.

This post was written by Guest Author

Dog Grooming: 7 Most Frequently Asked Dog Grooming Questions & Its Answers

February 4th, 2007

by Dr. John Rappaport

Although it’s often overlooked, grooming is an important part of your dog’s health and wellness program. Here are some of the most frequently asked dog grooming questions our experts at PetPlace.com are asked by their 600,000 visitors per month:

1. When should I start grooming my dog?

Start regular grooming when you first bring your dog home and make it a part of his or her routine. Purchase a good-quality brush and comb and get your dog used to being handled. Praise your dog when he or she holds still and soon he or she will come to enjoy the extra attention. Some breeds have special grooming needs, so ask your vet or a professional groomer for advice on particular grooming equipment necessary for your particular dog.

2. How often should I brush my dog’s hair?

Routine brushing and combing removes dead hair and dirt and prevents matting, while giving your pet a healthier and shinier coat.

Your dog’s skin and hair coat reflects his or her overall health and nutritional status. Many dogs maintain a healthy skin and hair coat with minimal assistance. Some long-haired or curly-haired breeds require regular brushing. For most dogs, a good brushing once or twice a week will do the trick.

3. How often should I bathe my dog?

Your dog’s need for bathing depends on its breed, the skin type and hair coat. It also depends on the owner’s preference and how dirty your dog gets. Bathing your dog every month or two isn’t unreasonable, but some dogs will need more frequent cleanings. A good rule of thumb is to bathe your pet only when the coat gets dirty or begins to smell “doggy.”

When bathing your dog, make sure to rinse all the soap out of the coat. If there are persistent problems with scratching or flaky skin, he or she may need a special medicated shampoo or have a skin problem that your veterinarian should examine.

4. What skin problems are common among dogs and what should I look for?

Skin problems - including fleas, ticks and mites or allergies and infections - are common among dogs. Most conditions are manageable with early detection and treatment. If you notice excessive scratching, hair loss or flaky skin, contact your veterinarian. If your pet is continuously exposed to fleas and ticks, speak to your veterinarian about products to minimize the parasite’s impact on your dog’s skin. Remember that consistently poor hair coat with lots of skin flaking may indicate a deeper medical problem.

5. I have problems cleaning my dog’s ears. What’s the best way to clean his ears and how often should it be cleaned.

Ears also require cleaning, especially in dogs with oily skin or allergies. This is a delicate task and is probably best left to your vet. However, if your dog is easy to handle (and there is no chance that you will be bitten), you can learn to do this chore yourself. To remove excessive wax and debris from the ears, consider an ear cleaning every two to four weeks. Ask your veterinarian about products you can use at home, and be sure to ask for a demonstration of proper ear cleaning techniques.

6. I have problems keeping my dog still so I can trim its nails. Do you have any nail trimming advice?

While clipping nails is a painless and simple process, it takes practice and patience to master the skill. When you muster enough courage to trim the nails of your dog, you’ll need a good nail clipper, a nail file to rub any sharp edge away and a styptic stick to stop any subsequent bleeding easily.

Ask your vet to show you the correct technique, and then get started by getting your pet used to having his or her paws handled. Once you start using the clippers, go slowly. Try clipping just a few nails in one sitting. Maintain a regular schedule and be persistent. Your pet will eventually develop patience and learn to cooperate.

7. What is the most important thing to include in my dog grooming kit?

The most important thing required in your grooming kit is your own confidence. It will form and take shape within you and grow in time.

So, go ahead and start grooming your dog. If you can overcome your hesitation, beautiful and rewarding experiences are waiting for you. Grooming your dog properly helps to keep him or her healthy while building an important bond between you and your pet.
About the Author

As Founder of PetPlace.com, the definitive web destination for PetCrazy people, Dr. John Rappaport provides you with a library of 8,000+ veterinarian approved articles to keep your dog living longer, stronger, healthier and happier lives. For a wealth of free information including dog grooming tips and information on dog grooming supplies and techniques go to http://www.petplace.com/dogs.aspx

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Tips For House Training Your Dog

February 1st, 2007

by Thomas Cash

The first thing you must have when attempting to house train your dog is “patience.” Keep in mind that when we were young, we too had to learn where and when we could go. Bad news is, we don’t have doggie diapers, but the good news is we don’t have to get our dogs on a toilet seat! Also, dogs are instinctively clean animals, they would prefer to not to mess themselves or their usual eating and sleeping areas. Depending on the age of your dog, they naturally develop tendencies to go on certain surfaces like grass or dirt, use this as a stepping stone to a quicker and more successful training cycle.

Establish the Living Area with Your Dog

Help your dog establish their living area in a small confined space, maybe a bathroom, part of the kitchen or garage. Please make sure that if you plan to have your dog in a crate, make it an open environment. Some people think that putting the dog in a crate and shutting the door helps them get used to their surroundings, but it doesn’t. Using a crate is OK if you let your dog live comfortably by letting them have some freedom to go in and out as they please, unless you have to leave the house for a short period of time. Keeping them locked up for long periods of time is when you should ask yourself if you are really ready to own a dog.

Take the time to work with your dog to establish their living area. Spend time playing with them in their “room” as well as let them eat and sleep here. Do your best to make their room comfortable, maybe give them a comfortable dog bed, blanket and give them a bowl of water in, or close to their space. It’s possible they might still wet their space in the beginning but once they realize that their room is designated for their comfort they will do their best to avoid going in their space as long as they have regular opportunities to go to the toilet on the paper or outside.

When your dog has had the time to get comfortable with their room, you’ll be able to move it around and they will follow it to wherever you decide to place it. It’s important to find a place that makes them part of the family surroundings but is equally convenient for you so you don’t feel they’re “in the way” a dog will become part of the family in no time, trust me!

Once your dog gets to the point of sleeping in their bed feel free to confine them there by leashing them or shutting the crate door to keep them in their room, just be aware of them and ensure you can keep an eye on them. Keeping your dog on a leash unattended is not recommended anytime. Also, if you feel that you want to keep an eye on them when there awake, just keep their leash attached to your belt during your daily routine to help you identify any tendencies and help monitor their behavior.

Establish the Toilet Area with Your Dog

Help your dog establish their toilet area, at first it will probably be inside the house on some news paper, just make sure they that they have access to this area when they need it. If they do not have access to this area they will go in other places and establish their own areas, the problem being this might not be ideal for you and your family. Until they are comfortable going in the designated area, it is important that you accompany your dog every time.

The best way to gauge when your dog has to go to the toilet is to keep them on a regular eating schedule. You will start to see that when they eat at a certain time they will need to go to they toilet after an approximate amount of time, this will give you a better understanding of when they have to go. A regular eating schedule means a regular toilet schedule this will help you to plan out your day without having messy accidents everywhere. If your dog is confined too long and has to go, they will potentially go in there space and it will get increasingly more difficult to house train them.

If you have a new puppy they have a harder time controlling their bladder so you might have to take them a little more frequently, but healthy adult dogs should be able to control their bladder and bowels for about eight hours. Also, keep in mind that when new puppies get excited they might make little mistakes, make sure you don’t scold them in this instance, just let them know they did it and show them the regular toilet area. Every time they go in the right place make sure you let them know they did good, this will reinforce what you’re training.

As you are training your dog in the house you should be working with them outside as this is where your dog will end up going. You have to read little signs to know when they’re ready to go and if convenient take them outside right away. Don’t expect a puppy to bark when they need to go, they’re not there yet! You will know something’s up when your dog starts to get restless or starts sniffing around, they’re actually looking for a spot to go. Just pick them up and take them outside, they’ll do the rest, you can urge them a bit with the command that you want them to go. Again, once they go it’s important to acknowledge them in a positive way so they know that this is where they must go. When they get comfortable with this they will start to ask to go out.

Some Tips

* If you follow the instructions as outlined above, your dog will be house trained in a short period of time. One way to speed up the process is to praise and reward your dog each and every time they go successfully in their toilet area. It is just as important not to scold your dog for accidents and mistakes. Reprimanding your dog usually confuses the dog and slows down the house training process.

* If you find that your dog continues to go in their allotted space, make note of how long they were there. You might find they were in there too long or they’re space is a bit too big for them, giving them the room to go in the corner of they’re space. You can remedy this by not leaving them there too long, establish a smaller sleep area and take them to the toilet more often.

* If you find that your dog continues to go in their bed, this might be due to being confined there too long and they couldn’t help themselves, or they are still trying to understand that this is their sleep and comfort space. Again, try not to leave your dog in their space too long and try to take them to the toilet more often.

* If you find the bed wetting continuing longer than you feel is right, you might want to look at their water intake. A lot of dogs will drink water out of boredom or habit, ensure you’re limiting their intake and take them out more often if possible. Also, try and keep your dog active to ensure good health and limited boredom, get them into good habits. Also, be aware that continued messing can be due to unknown medical issues like urinary tract problems for instance, try the tips above first, it’s usually something simple that you might be missing.

* If your dog doesn’t feel comfortable in their space and/or surroundings you might notice signs of them barking, chewing, some anxiety or whining a lot. If you feel this is happening go back over your method and ensure you’re making them as comfortable and welcomed as a family member.

Remember, love, due diligence and patience on your part will make it a smooth and “clean” transition.

About the Author

Great resource for dog lovers, tips on dog accessories, dog training, dog breeds and more! Learn More: http://www.home-and-leisure-guide.com/dogaccessories

This post was written by Guest Author

How To Change A Dog’s Diet

February 1st, 2007

by John Mailer

There are five basic steps when it comes to changing your dog’s diet. They are as follows:

Step 1: lf a dog is in a new environment, has a new owner, or is being required to undergo some other emotional or physical strain, dog food changes should be postponed until the stress has been eliminated or the dog has adapted to it. With changes in ownership, the dog food fed by the previous owner should be obtained if at all possible and fed until the dog becomes accustomed to its new surroundings.

Step 2: Once the dog is in a proper emotional state to accept a dietary change it should be accomplished without delay. Start by substituting 25 percent of the old dog food with the new dog food. Mix the two thoroughly making every attempt to conceal the new food within the old. This mixture should be fed until the dog eats the mixture with the same relish that it ate its previous dog food. For some dogs this may be the first time the mixture is fed; for others it may take several days or even weeks. Don’t hurry the procedure. After all, the dog may have had 24 months to get accustomed to its old diet. Don’t expect it to change all of that in just 24 hours. Once the dog is eating the 25:75 mixture as well as it did its previous food, proceed to step three

Step 3: During the third step, 50 percent of the old dog food is replaced by new food and slightly less effort is made to conceal it within the old dog food. Again, when the dog is eating the 50:50 mixture with the same gusto it did its previous food, proceed to step four.

Step 4: Now 75 percent of the new dog food is present in the mixture being fed, and little if any effort is made to conceal the new dog food except to mix it evenly with the ordinal food. By now, most dogs will readily accept the increased mixture the first time it is fed. If the dog accepted the 50:50 mixture at the first feeding, step four can be eliminated and you can proceed directly to step five.

Step 5: This is the final step, the one in which all of the old dog food is eliminated from the dog’s diet. One hundred percent of the new dog food is fed from then on. For some dogs this procedure may take only three days and require only steps two, three and five. For others it may take longer and must progress through each step separately. Do not become discouraged. With dogs, food likes and dislikes are mostly learned from previous experiences. Changing a dog food is a process of unlearning and relearning, and such things cannot be hurried.

The third general consideration is to make sure that the balance of dog nutrition remains the same.There is no better time to check out exactly what dog nutrition level your dog needs. Just hit the browser with dog nutrition and all the information is there before your eyes.

About the Author

John Mailer has written many articles about dogs and puppies and how to train them. His main business is as an internet marketer Make Extra Money Online Dog Food

This post was written by Guest Author